Thats very weird, maybe you pulled a fuse out whilst ignition is on? If putting everything back to normal does not fix the problem then you know its something else.
I recommend every car owner to keep a OBD scanner handy, buy online for about £20...saves a trip to the dealer and allows to google the code to help find a solution...
Sorry, couldn't be of more help...

 

Not that I recall as I just went onto a spare slot with the piggy back fuse holder and then made the ground connection.

I’ll get hold of an OBD reader and go from there.

 

Ok so I got hold of an ODB reader, connected to the car and the engine management light has gone without actually doing anything. Not sure if it’s just a coincidence or the device actually clearered something as part of the intitial diagnosis scan.

It did give me some control module options which I don’t have a clue as to what they mean and the readers instructions are a little light!

Also got a Mercedes Me Connect limited services message pop up now - any idea what this is about before I go looking in the manual?

 

The Me connect error has also disappeared now

 

Has anyone noticed the inbuilt dash cam in settings/system/license activation?, can't see an option to active it. My car is equipped with augmented reality navigation. ?

 

This is my first post, joined the site to get some advice on the correct fuse location to use.


This is my first time playing with a mercedes but does anyone else not think its a little strange and over the top that the fuse box lid is held in place with 4 torx bolts? It's definitely not a road side job when you blow your fuse for your front lights is it!



Thanks for the info though, will be fitting to 125 this morning.

 

Dash cam feed

As photo for feed for dashcam

 

Dash cam feed

As photo for feed for dashcam

Is this 162?

I’m in the process of installing a Nextbase 522GW and I cannot see a diagram of the fuses.

Anyone else experience the same? I find it hard to believe MB didn’t include a fuse diagram. I did also check the manual.

Thanks!

 

Anybody in the UK used Halfords to install a dashcam in their new A-class? Used them on a previous car and they did a fine job.

 

On my previous cars I've had specialist fitters install the dashcam (dual cam set up), have used Thinkware and Blackvue products. I had to leave the cameras in the car before, so on a whim, ordered a Nextbase dual Camera set up from Halfords, the order, delivery/collection was fraught with problems and getting a fitting date equally difficult as their e booking system didn't work. Anyhow, it went in this afternoon for a 2 hr fitting, 1hr for the front and 1 hr for the rear. Got a lift home as I wasn't going to wait that long, 30 min later, I get the phone call, sorry sir, unable to fit as we cannot locate a live free fuse. Went back and got a full refund.

So I'm now looking at another Blackvue set up. Blooming annoying as the Nextbase ones seem to pretty good for their prices.

 

Dont do it

 

Is that based on experience? If so, what went wrong?

 

Hi everyone, sorry to resurrect an old thread but I thought it better than starting a new one.

I’m looking to hardwire my dashcam into my W177. I’ve had a look at the fuse box diagram and have identified a few 5A fuses hoping they will be suitable to piggy back on. On checking the fuse list though, I’m not certain as to which one to use.

These are the ones I’ve identified:

107 - Distronic/FCW

108 - Emergency Call System

131 - Radio System

144/148/168 - Control Panel/Multi-Media Box/Telephone System/Navigation/Multi-funktion Steering Wheel

167 - Central Locking


Looking at that list I’m thinking that 144, 146 or 168 would be the most suitable given that they’re all only in operation when the ignition is switched on. I had planned to piggy back onto the glove box light but i just can’t find it anywhere.

I also read further up that someone used 124 (cigarette lighter) to hardwire their cam. This would make sense given that it’s a 12v connection, and what the dash cam is supposed to be plugged in to. But according to my diagram, this is a 20A fuse. Can I use a 20A to piggy back onto? My understanding was I had to use a 5A. Realllly confused here. Don’t want to set my car on fire so could do with knowing what’s what!

If anyone could offer any help at all then that would be great. Cheers!

 

So which fuse numbers are used for which wire?
Permanent live -
Switched live -

 

You can use higher rated supplies if you fit in-line fuse holders with low rated quick blow fuses in the dashcam positive lines.

I've used high rated ignition and permanent supplies (25A and 30A iirc) in my W176 for a Blackvue DR490L, which has parking mode with motion sensors and has smart voltage shut off to avoid draining the battery ... and unusually, even an old fashioned on/off switch! Near the piggy back end of each positive line I've fitted a twist-open in-line fuse cartridge with a quick blow 1A fuse (the glass cartridge kind you get in electronics and AV equipment).

As Account asked above, has anybody identified a suitable permanent supply in their W177? More sophisticated dashcams have parking modes which require one.

 

You can use higher rated supplies if you fit in-line fuse holders with low rated quick blow fuses in the dashcam positive lines.

I've used high rated ignition and permanent supplies (25A and 30A iirc) in my W176 for a Blackvue DR490L, which has parking mode with motion sensors and has smart voltage shut off to avoid draining the battery ... and unusually, even an old fashioned on/off switch! Near the piggy back end of each positive line I've fitted a twist-open in-line fuse cartridge with a quick blow 1A fuse (the glass cartridge kind you get in electronics and AV equipment).

Most of that makes no sense whatsoever to me...

But this is the set I’m planning on buying to do it, does that have everything you mentioned above?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F71RBR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BqPPCbKBQ35VG

All I want is to power it on and off with the ignition, just finding the right fuse for it that’s the right amp.

 

If it's a dashcam that records parking incidents, then you do not want it to power off with the ignition - just detect that the engine is off. Such dashcams (such as Thinkware F800) have a setting to monitor the battery voltage (when engine off) and turn off when it dips below a preset value.

 

It’s a Nextbase 312 so it doesn’t have parking mode unfortunately.

I’m thinking of maybe piggy backing off the radio which seems to be 5amp. Any advice on this?

 

Scratch that, looks like the radio is always live. The cig lighter on the other hand definitely isn’t.

 

Hello all,

Can anyone describe how he / she connected the dashcam (with parking mode) to the fuse box. I tried this, but I am unable to find the right fuse for the permanent and switched one. When I use a voltmeter I cannot measure voltage on any fuse. With a meter with a light, only one fuse of 40 Amp lights, with all others nothing, both with the ignition on and off. However, when I for example, measure the fuse of the radio, I get no result, but when I pull this out, the radio no longer works.

For the earthing, the supplied clamp is very small in size, so I also found no point to attach. I have purchased the Mivue Smartbox, but after several attempts I failed to connect it.

With a previous car I managed to install a Power Magic Pro (Blackvue) box, both permanently and switched, without any problems.

Is it also possible to upload some photos of how the wires are connected to the fuse box?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Friendly Greetings,
Anthony3001, Belgium



Anthony, Belgium

 

Finally got round to doing this today. Ended up using Fuse 125 which was spare. I had originally planned on piggy backing off 124 (cigarette lighter) however the kit wouldn’t fit in due to the shape - the end of the wire hits the plastic casing and you can’t push it in. Real pain. There’s just that little bit more space by using 125.

Confusing though (I know nothing about electrics). I left the fuse in 124 and used the hardwire kit and new fuse in 125... it wouldn’t work. Yet when I put the fuse from 124 into the piggy back kit, it worked. So it’s been left in there, just means my cigarette lighter has no power. No problem though as I don’t have a use for it. Phone charger plugs in underneath centre armrest so we’re all good.

Found the whole thing easy to do just a bit fiddly.

 

I have just installed a Blackvue DR490L 2-channel camera with parking mode and used empty slot 125 for ignition live and empty slot 162 for permanent live.

I used piggy back connectors, which I trimmed the edges of slightly for a better fit, as there were clip together tangs on the sides interfering with insertion in the slot.

In the piggy backs I used 2A fuses (they don't work without a fuse inserted), but I also left the in-line cartridge fuses attached from my previous install in my W176, which are loaded with 1A quick-blow fuses.

Take care to route the cable through the fuse panel exit far enough away from the 12V main terminal stud so that there is no cable fretting and nasty short in future.

The return has a croc clip on the end and is clipped onto the earth stud left and below the fuse panel. Once the foot well carpet was replaced, the cable was run along the top edge of the panel on the left, along the underside of the glove box, then across the door pillar and under the door seal.

Things will be a little different for all you LHD owners, as the cable will exit on the right side of the fuse panel on the other side of the car.

Oh and compared to the W176, the foot well carpet in the W177 is a bit of a bugger to put back in place properly, as there are tangs on the edge of the outer foot well panel that go through slots in the carpet

When measuring for voltage, go between the silver strip you can see in the base of all the fuse slots, including the empty ones, that's the live, or positive, to a suitable earth return stud, like the one below the fuse panel. Remember, to ensure measuring a permanent live, wait for the MBUX screens to go out, or the ignition supply will still be on.

 

Hi All,

i have purchased a Thinkware Q800 pro with a Cellink no 6 battery to install in my car.

As i'm using the cellink neo 6 i connected a wiring with a piggy back fuse holder to the cigarette fuse (20amp) and with a ground screw was you can see in the picture.
Them connected the camera with the 3 wire kit on the celling neo 6.

1st problem : i turn the car on and i never get to charge the cellink neo 6... but if i use the cigarette socket in the cellink neo 6 she starts charging...


2nd problem i'm not able to get parking recording to start when i switch off the car, i have altered all the options to enable the parking mode but it never switches to parking mode.. it keeps in continuous recording mode

my questions :

1) When charging the cellink neo 6 in the cigarette socket should the thinkware commuted to parking mode?
2) What am i doing wrong wiring the fuses with the Cellink neo 6?

thanks

 

Hi All,

i have purchased a Thinkware Q800 pro with a Cellink no 6 battery to install in my car.

As i'm using the cellink neo 6 i connected a wiring with a piggy back fuse holder to the cigarette fuse (20amp) and with a ground screw was you can see in the picture.
Them connected the camera with the 3 wire kit on the celling neo 6.

1st problem : i turn the car on and i never get to charge the cellink neo 6... but if i use the cigarette socket in the cellink neo 6 she starts charging...


2nd problem i'm not able to get parking recording to start when i switch off the car, i have altered all the options to enable the parking mode but it never switches to parking mode.. it keeps in continuous recording mode

my questions :

1) When charging the cellink neo 6 in the cigarette socket should the thinkware commuted to parking mode?
2) What am i doing wrong wiring the fuses with the Cellink neo 6?

thanks

Where did you place your Cellink? I had mine in the boot with my C series but no fuse box there in the A200 W177. Under passenger seat is possible but it would move as seat is moved back / forward. Can't see any other alternatives.

 

Definitely check the potential on that large stud at the green arrow. You might find that is at +12V and is the main positive stud for the fuse panel, not a ground or earth..

Is your photo upside down compared to mine posted above? I found the nearest ground stud is outside the fuse panel, below and to the left.

 

Hi, The photo is not upside down, as the drivers position in Portugal is on the left.

i have to check where is the ground point ...its so hard do see and find anything there due to the foam in the carpet.

i'm wondering if the ceellink noe6 haven't become faulty with positive+positive instead positive+ground.

I have tested on other car and the cellink battery charges up, but i never manage to have the Thinkware to commuted to parking mode when attached to the Cellink Neo 6 .
Nevertheless i have already tested the Thinkware without the cellink and the thinkware commuted to parking mode.

any ideas what might be the issue with the cellink neo 6 for not allowing the thinkware to commuted to the parking mode ?

Thanks

 

I earthed mine on the lowest 13mm bolt securing the dashboard, about a quarter of the way back up from the fuse board.

 

Hi,
can you share any photo ?
as the driver side is on the left... Probably it might not exist a ground bolt in the passenger side
Thanks

 

Hi sierramike,

my photo further up the topic is for a RHD UK car, where the fuse panel is in the passenger foot well on the left side, which is why I thought your photo may be upside down because the fuse layout is mirrored.

In mine you can just see my negative line with a croc clip on, going to the ground stud at the bottom left of the photo. It is outside and below the fuse panel.

In yours it may also be somewhere below the fuse panel, but more likely to the right if it is built the same way.

 

Hi Southwestwall,

I will try to find that ground stud.. but its so hard to pull the carpet with that rigid foam...

Thanks

 

Hi southwestwall
What size of piggy back connectors did you use?

 

Hmmm good question. Bought them a long time ago when I installed this dashcam in my previous W176 A-Class.

I had a look and the original seller is no more, but they are 20A capacity fuse tap piggy-back standard blade fuse holders, widely available.

I did file the edge of the carriers slightly to get them to sit in the fuse slots properly, as the fit is quite tight and they had a kind of clasp down the edge joining the two halves of the body.

Those are 2 amp fuses in the piggy back holders, as they were to hand at the time and a fuse has to be inserted for them to conduct. The in-line cartridges have 1 amp quick blow fuses in ... the DR490L has pretty low current draw and better popped than sorry, though they never have.

 

Thank you, thought might be a long shot.



Just blade fuses come in three sizes, hence question, saves having to pull apart twice, take it they are "old school" standard blade fuses rather than the newer mini blades.

 

Yes they are standard blade fuse holders.