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Iused fuse 124 cig lighter passenger footwell and the permenent live which goes to the fuse box i have a Gamin dash cam that needs a permanent live as well as a switched live hope this helps

Hey,
Which fuse did you use as the feed for the permanent live?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
 

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Anybody in the UK used Halfords to install a dashcam in their new A-class? Used them on a previous car and they did a fine job.
 

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Hi everyone, sorry to resurrect an old thread but I thought it better than starting a new one.

I’m looking to hardwire my dashcam into my W177. I’ve had a look at the fuse box diagram and have identified a few 5A fuses hoping they will be suitable to piggy back on. On checking the fuse list though, I’m not certain as to which one to use.

These are the ones I’ve identified:

107 - Distronic/FCW

108 - Emergency Call System

131 - Radio System

144/148/168 - Control Panel/Multi-Media Box/Telephone System/Navigation/Multi-funktion Steering Wheel

167 - Central Locking


Looking at that list I’m thinking that 144, 146 or 168 would be the most suitable given that they’re all only in operation when the ignition is switched on. I had planned to piggy back onto the glove box light but i just can’t find it anywhere.

I also read further up that someone used 124 (cigarette lighter) to hardwire their cam. This would make sense given that it’s a 12v connection, and what the dash cam is supposed to be plugged in to. But according to my diagram, this is a 20A fuse. Can I use a 20A to piggy back onto? My understanding was I had to use a 5A. Realllly confused here. Don’t want to set my car on fire so could do with knowing what’s what!

If anyone could offer any help at all then that would be great. Cheers!
 

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You can use higher rated supplies if you fit in-line fuse holders with low rated quick blow fuses in the dashcam positive lines.

I've used high rated ignition and permanent supplies (25A and 30A iirc) in my W176 for a Blackvue DR490L, which has parking mode with motion sensors and has smart voltage shut off to avoid draining the battery ... and unusually, even an old fashioned on/off switch! Near the piggy back end of each positive line I've fitted a twist-open in-line fuse cartridge with a quick blow 1A fuse (the glass cartridge kind you get in electronics and AV equipment).

As Account asked above, has anybody identified a suitable permanent supply in their W177? More sophisticated dashcams have parking modes which require one.
 

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You can use higher rated supplies if you fit in-line fuse holders with low rated quick blow fuses in the dashcam positive lines.

I've used high rated ignition and permanent supplies (25A and 30A iirc) in my W176 for a Blackvue DR490L, which has parking mode with motion sensors and has smart voltage shut off to avoid draining the battery ... and unusually, even an old fashioned on/off switch! Near the piggy back end of each positive line I've fitted a twist-open in-line fuse cartridge with a quick blow 1A fuse (the glass cartridge kind you get in electronics and AV equipment).
Most of that makes no sense whatsoever to me... :confused: :D

But this is the set I’m planning on buying to do it, does that have everything you mentioned above?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F71RBR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BqPPCbKBQ35VG

All I want is to power it on and off with the ignition, just finding the right fuse for it that’s the right amp.
 

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If it's a dashcam that records parking incidents, then you do not want it to power off with the ignition - just detect that the engine is off. Such dashcams (such as Thinkware F800) have a setting to monitor the battery voltage (when engine off) and turn off when it dips below a preset value.
 

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It’s a Nextbase 312 so it doesn’t have parking mode unfortunately.

I’m thinking of maybe piggy backing off the radio which seems to be 5amp. Any advice on this?
 

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Hello all,

Can anyone describe how he / she connected the dashcam (with parking mode) to the fuse box. I tried this, but I am unable to find the right fuse for the permanent and switched one. When I use a voltmeter I cannot measure voltage on any fuse. With a meter with a light, only one fuse of 40 Amp lights, with all others nothing, both with the ignition on and off. However, when I for example, measure the fuse of the radio, I get no result, but when I pull this out, the radio no longer works.

For the earthing, the supplied clamp is very small in size, so I also found no point to attach. I have purchased the Mivue Smartbox, but after several attempts I failed to connect it.

With a previous car I managed to install a Power Magic Pro (Blackvue) box, both permanently and switched, without any problems.

Is it also possible to upload some photos of how the wires are connected to the fuse box?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Friendly Greetings,
Anthony3001, Belgium



Anthony, Belgium
 

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Finally got round to doing this today. Ended up using Fuse 125 which was spare. I had originally planned on piggy backing off 124 (cigarette lighter) however the kit wouldn’t fit in due to the shape - the end of the wire hits the plastic casing and you can’t push it in. Real pain. There’s just that little bit more space by using 125.

Confusing though (I know nothing about electrics). I left the fuse in 124 and used the hardwire kit and new fuse in 125... it wouldn’t work. Yet when I put the fuse from 124 into the piggy back kit, it worked. So it’s been left in there, just means my cigarette lighter has no power. No problem though as I don’t have a use for it. Phone charger plugs in underneath centre armrest so we’re all good.

Found the whole thing easy to do just a bit fiddly.
 

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I have just installed a Blackvue DR490L 2-channel camera with parking mode and used empty slot 125 for ignition live and empty slot 162 for permanent live.

I used piggy back connectors, which I trimmed the edges of slightly for a better fit, as there were clip together tangs on the sides interfering with insertion in the slot.

In the piggy backs I used 2A fuses (they don't work without a fuse inserted), but I also left the in-line cartridge fuses attached from my previous install in my W176, which are loaded with 1A quick-blow fuses.

Take care to route the cable through the fuse panel exit far enough away from the 12V main terminal stud so that there is no cable fretting and nasty short in future.

The return has a croc clip on the end and is clipped onto the earth stud left and below the fuse panel. Once the foot well carpet was replaced, the cable was run along the top edge of the panel on the left, along the underside of the glove box, then across the door pillar and under the door seal.

Things will be a little different for all you LHD owners, as the cable will exit on the right side of the fuse panel on the other side of the car.

Oh and compared to the W176, the foot well carpet in the W177 is a bit of a bugger to put back in place properly, as there are tangs on the edge of the outer foot well panel that go through slots in the carpet

When measuring for voltage, go between the silver strip you can see in the base of all the fuse slots, including the empty ones, that's the live, or positive, to a suitable earth return stud, like the one below the fuse panel. Remember, to ensure measuring a permanent live, wait for the MBUX screens to go out, or the ignition supply will still be on.
 

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Hi All,

i have purchased a Thinkware Q800 pro with a Cellink no 6 battery to install in my car.

As i'm using the cellink neo 6 i connected a wiring with a piggy back fuse holder to the cigarette fuse (20amp) and with a ground screw was you can see in the picture.
Them connected the camera with the 3 wire kit on the celling neo 6.

1st problem : i turn the car on and i never get to charge the cellink neo 6... but if i use the cigarette socket in the cellink neo 6 she starts charging...


2nd problem i'm not able to get parking recording to start when i switch off the car, i have altered all the options to enable the parking mode but it never switches to parking mode.. it keeps in continuous recording mode

my questions :

1) When charging the cellink neo 6 in the cigarette socket should the thinkware commuted to parking mode?
2) What am i doing wrong wiring the fuses with the Cellink neo 6?

thanks
 

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Definitely check the potential on that large stud at the green arrow. You might find that is at +12V and is the main positive stud for the fuse panel, not a ground or earth..

Is your photo upside down compared to mine posted above? I found the nearest ground stud is outside the fuse panel, below and to the left.
 

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I earthed mine on the lowest 13mm bolt securing the dashboard, about a quarter of the way back up from the fuse board.
 

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Definitely check the potential on that large stud at the green arrow. You might find that is at +12V and is the main positive stud for the fuse panel, not a ground or earth..

Is your photo upside down compared to mine posted above? I found the nearest ground stud is outside the fuse panel, below and to the left.
Hi, The photo is not upside down, as the drivers position in Portugal is on the left.

i have to check where is the ground point ...its so hard do see and find anything there due to the foam in the carpet.

i'm wondering if the ceellink noe6 haven't become faulty with positive+positive instead positive+ground.

I have tested on other car and the cellink battery charges up, but i never manage to have the Thinkware to commuted to parking mode when attached to the Cellink Neo 6 .
Nevertheless i have already tested the Thinkware without the cellink and the thinkware commuted to parking mode.

any ideas what might be the issue with the cellink neo 6 for not allowing the thinkware to commuted to the parking mode ?

Thanks
 
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