Hi Guys,
(This is my first post on this forum, so feel free to move this thread if this is not the right location.)
I just want to share my experience about the RaceChip RS with you.
I'm leasing a Mercedes A-Class W177 180d (116hp - 260Nm).
I had in my mind to have a professional remap witch (according to their site) would give me 140pk - 310Nm and would cost me €500.
After spending some time on the internet searching about remapping a lease, I just forgot about this. But I now came across something else "power box".
It didn't take long for me to order a RaceChip RS, since they are claiming it would give my car 136pk - 306Nm and it would only cost me €319 (incl. Bluetooth).
(The moment of writing this, I've the chip installed for a month.)
Installation:
They claim that the installation is easy and only takes some minutes. But that's not the case.
First, I unlocked the bonnet, locked the car and put the key 10m away.
After 15min I opened the bonnet and started locating the sensors, this was really easy since I received a mail from RaceChip with pictures of the locations on my engine.
I had to start with the "Common Rail Sensor" this one was really difficult to connect, and it took me pretty long to put on the RaceChip to that sensor, since it's very tight out there.
You don't only have to get this at the right angle, you also have to put pressure on a clip, I can tell you, it's almost impossible.
Tip: Put a zip tie around the clip, so the clip is "open" and put it on. Afterwards just carefully cut the zip tie.
I had no problems with the "Turbo-boost pressure sensor" and I could connect the RaceChip itself.
I could now turn on the ignition and check if all the lights on the instrument cluster acted normal, and that was the case (I was happy that was the case).
The next step was to start the engine and see if it was running like it should. This was the case BUT as soon as I started it, the engine light turned on...
I felt crap about this, because I really didn't want to uninstall it and to struggle again with the Common Rail Sensor.
I've bought a cheap ODB2 Scanner a while ago, so I checked if I could see any error codes with it.
It gave me Following code: "P0193; Fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor - high input".
I just ignored this, because it seemed "normal" to me (but I still had this in my mind).
While thinking about the error, I've put the cables and the box in place with zip ties and went out for a (gentle) test drive.
I had some problems connecting to the box with the app, so I restarted the car and the app, without any success.
BUT, then something magically happened, after restarting the engine and the app 2 or 3 times it connected AND the engine light went away.
Probably the RaceChip first had to connect with the app so it could load its settings from their server.
Results:
I can definitely feel the difference, however it's not that much of power increase, my girlfriend doesn't feel any difference.
She even claimed the she's sure there's nothing changed.
Off course I had to prove her wrong ?
To do this, I used the ODB2 Scanner again in combination with the "Car Scanner" app. Within the app you can do acceleration tests and choose the speed ranges you want to test.
I went to an empty long straight (bumpy) road for this.
(All the runs were from the same start point)
To start I did 3 runs with the chip turned off.
Then I did 3 runs with the chip on Sport mode (setting 5).
To finish I did 3 runs with the chip in Sport mode, but I changed it to (the max) setting 6.
You can find the results below:
After all I'm still happy with the RaceChip and at this moment I would recommend this if you are a car freak and you've sense for detail.
Let me know if you have a question about the installation or if you want me to try something, for example different speed ranges, ...
Thanks for reading.
Have a nice day!
Kind Regards,
Oscar.G
(This is my first post on this forum, so feel free to move this thread if this is not the right location.)
I just want to share my experience about the RaceChip RS with you.
I'm leasing a Mercedes A-Class W177 180d (116hp - 260Nm).
I had in my mind to have a professional remap witch (according to their site) would give me 140pk - 310Nm and would cost me €500.
After spending some time on the internet searching about remapping a lease, I just forgot about this. But I now came across something else "power box".
It didn't take long for me to order a RaceChip RS, since they are claiming it would give my car 136pk - 306Nm and it would only cost me €319 (incl. Bluetooth).
(The moment of writing this, I've the chip installed for a month.)
Installation:
They claim that the installation is easy and only takes some minutes. But that's not the case.
First, I unlocked the bonnet, locked the car and put the key 10m away.
After 15min I opened the bonnet and started locating the sensors, this was really easy since I received a mail from RaceChip with pictures of the locations on my engine.
I had to start with the "Common Rail Sensor" this one was really difficult to connect, and it took me pretty long to put on the RaceChip to that sensor, since it's very tight out there.
You don't only have to get this at the right angle, you also have to put pressure on a clip, I can tell you, it's almost impossible.
Tip: Put a zip tie around the clip, so the clip is "open" and put it on. Afterwards just carefully cut the zip tie.
I had no problems with the "Turbo-boost pressure sensor" and I could connect the RaceChip itself.
I could now turn on the ignition and check if all the lights on the instrument cluster acted normal, and that was the case (I was happy that was the case).
The next step was to start the engine and see if it was running like it should. This was the case BUT as soon as I started it, the engine light turned on...
I felt crap about this, because I really didn't want to uninstall it and to struggle again with the Common Rail Sensor.
I've bought a cheap ODB2 Scanner a while ago, so I checked if I could see any error codes with it.
It gave me Following code: "P0193; Fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor - high input".
I just ignored this, because it seemed "normal" to me (but I still had this in my mind).
While thinking about the error, I've put the cables and the box in place with zip ties and went out for a (gentle) test drive.
I had some problems connecting to the box with the app, so I restarted the car and the app, without any success.
BUT, then something magically happened, after restarting the engine and the app 2 or 3 times it connected AND the engine light went away.
Probably the RaceChip first had to connect with the app so it could load its settings from their server.
Results:
I can definitely feel the difference, however it's not that much of power increase, my girlfriend doesn't feel any difference.
She even claimed the she's sure there's nothing changed.
Off course I had to prove her wrong ?
To do this, I used the ODB2 Scanner again in combination with the "Car Scanner" app. Within the app you can do acceleration tests and choose the speed ranges you want to test.
I went to an empty long straight (bumpy) road for this.
(All the runs were from the same start point)
To start I did 3 runs with the chip turned off.
Then I did 3 runs with the chip on Sport mode (setting 5).
To finish I did 3 runs with the chip in Sport mode, but I changed it to (the max) setting 6.
You can find the results below:
After all I'm still happy with the RaceChip and at this moment I would recommend this if you are a car freak and you've sense for detail.
Let me know if you have a question about the installation or if you want me to try something, for example different speed ranges, ...
Thanks for reading.
Have a nice day!
Kind Regards,
Oscar.G