What model rear diff oil needs to be replaced ？75W-85？75W-90or75W-140？
A45xxxllx
Speaking of rear diff oil changes - @TTG had to have a premature rear diff oil change to cure a rear diff knocking noise problem:
www.aclassclub.co.uk
Recall at B service time
Our car was in for some warranty work this week which they ended up not doing because one of the parts was wrong but they also said they couldn’t continue till recall was complete, I’ve done a vin search and nothing is showing as to what issue is with cooling hoses, anyone with any inside info...
www.aclassclub.co.uk
Ok. Anyway I was at the dealer Tuesday morning. Did engine oil/filter, spark plugs, air filter, pana and gearbox oil and its three filters, along with the o-rings all according to WIS. The mechanic had to print it out and study thoroughly prior to starting the procedure. He also printed the diff instructions, the same @veeeight posted on page 7, post #124.
And then he had a brief talk with another mechanic and the chief mechanic and they said, the oil I've brought (Shell TF 0870 B) isn't enough, cause we should be changing out the center section oil too. Now how about that? Would you expect that coming from a dealership? I said let's just change the left and right section and we'll see about the other one, as I haven't found what we're supposed to use. They said, well it's best to change them both together, so let's do that at a later date (within one month's time from today), give us time to look into it. And they have already sent an inquiry over to MB Germany about the 235.63. Of course I've already told them that I don't get my hopes up, as I know what MB will respond. And they said, if it's not available we're gonna have to find an alternative, and that's when I told them about the BMW hypoid, showed them a few pictures too.
So let's give that a try. Meantime I took the Shell back with me and waiting for their call. I was pleasantly surprised, I thought they would just ignore the center section, but them actually suggesting to change that too, wow.
And then he had a brief talk with another mechanic and the chief mechanic and they said, the oil I've brought (Shell TF 0870 B) isn't enough, cause we should be changing out the center section oil too. Now how about that? Would you expect that coming from a dealership? I said let's just change the left and right section and we'll see about the other one, as I haven't found what we're supposed to use. They said, well it's best to change them both together, so let's do that at a later date (within one month's time from today), give us time to look into it. And they have already sent an inquiry over to MB Germany about the 235.63. Of course I've already told them that I don't get my hopes up, as I know what MB will respond. And they said, if it's not available we're gonna have to find an alternative, and that's when I told them about the BMW hypoid, showed them a few pictures too.
So let's give that a try. Meantime I took the Shell back with me and waiting for their call. I was pleasantly surprised, I thought they would just ignore the center section, but them actually suggesting to change that too, wow.
But at least they suggested to change the center section too. I was beyond certain they would ignore that entirely since there hasn't been a procedure issued for it. That's why I showed up with just the Shell TF 0870 B for the diff service. Anyways, diff service will have to wait one extra month and in that time either I, them, whatever, will find a good .63 alternative or lube for life it is.
Going by the BMW part number from the photos
That BMW Hypoid “G4 Series”
is actually a GL-5 Spec Hypoid Oil.
“G4” refers to their own nomenclature, and does not refer to the “GL-5” spec.
Amongst other vehicles, It’s recommended for the F90 M5
www.bimmerworld.com
That BMW Hypoid “G4 Series”
is actually a GL-5 Spec Hypoid Oil.
“G4” refers to their own nomenclature, and does not refer to the “GL-5” spec.
Amongst other vehicles, It’s recommended for the F90 M5
Genuine BMW 75W80 G4 GL-5 Axle Gear Oil, 500mL
Genuine BMW 75W80 GL-5 synthetic gear oil
I've been trying to find the difference between P/N 83222447362 and 83222471487. It seems they are G4 and G5 respectively but as @veeeight said that's just BMW's listing. They are both hypoid oils, and we know the first is a GL-5 and we know its SAE too which is spot-on. What about the second one, can somebody help?
@Turbo Ed; @Forrester,
Yes, 2021 CLA 45 (non-S, was not available in the US until recently) with the torque vectoring rear. Unfortunately, these things are like unicorns in the states so I appreciate you all letting me tag along on here with the W177 crowd. I plan to do a DIY for the rear diff oil change in the near future when I can find the time; last weekend I hooked up my Xentry/C4 multiplexer to ensure I could follow the path for the post-oil change computer reset and I was able to.
Yes, 2021 CLA 45 (non-S, was not available in the US until recently) with the torque vectoring rear. Unfortunately, these things are like unicorns in the states so I appreciate you all letting me tag along on here with the W177 crowd. I plan to do a DIY for the rear diff oil change in the near future when I can find the time; last weekend I hooked up my Xentry/C4 multiplexer to ensure I could follow the path for the post-oil change computer reset and I was able to.
@fatty45
As @Forrester says.
When do you intend to start seriously modifying it, in the time-honored US manner?
What do you have in mind?
However, don't think you are alone with a Unicorn.
Perhaps @veeeight could source sales numbers by market around the world?
Everything we are seeing, from Spark Plugs to Lubricants, tells me we are dealing with a VERY low volume production vehicle, worldwide.
When I am at the engine plant in early September, I shall ask what the daily engine production numbers are.
As @Forrester says.
When do you intend to start seriously modifying it, in the time-honored US manner?
What do you have in mind?
However, don't think you are alone with a Unicorn.
Perhaps @veeeight could source sales numbers by market around the world?
Everything we are seeing, from Spark Plugs to Lubricants, tells me we are dealing with a VERY low volume production vehicle, worldwide.
When I am at the engine plant in early September, I shall ask what the daily engine production numbers are.
Well team, I went ahead and did a DIY Service B with rear differential service today. While I had the belly pan off for the oil filter, I noticed a small transmission fluid leak towards the back, but that adventure will be the subject of a different post. My question today deals more with the resetting of the oil condition post-clutch pack servicing.
I drained and filled both sides with the prescribed Shell TF-0870B and 1 liter was just enough to fill both sides to overflowing. I was surprised at how dark the fluid was as compared to new. I fired up Xentry and the multiplexer to perform the computer reset. I selected the right hand clutch pack computer first - adaptations - teach-in - reset oil service. It walked me through the procedure: oil above 86F? - start the car - stop the car - ignition on - ignition off - etc. until "successfully reset" came up. Super easy and intuitive. It then stated to repeat with the left clutch. So I called that computer up, ran through the same process, and right at the end, Xentry would say something like "module declined to respond to command." I repeated the reset from the beginning 3 times with the same result. No drivability issues detected during the test drive.
I seem to remember reading somewhere that one side's computer acts as the "master" for certain functions - I wonder if that's why the oil condition reset was only possible via the right hand computer. Does anyone have any experience with this or ideas?
I drained and filled both sides with the prescribed Shell TF-0870B and 1 liter was just enough to fill both sides to overflowing. I was surprised at how dark the fluid was as compared to new. I fired up Xentry and the multiplexer to perform the computer reset. I selected the right hand clutch pack computer first - adaptations - teach-in - reset oil service. It walked me through the procedure: oil above 86F? - start the car - stop the car - ignition on - ignition off - etc. until "successfully reset" came up. Super easy and intuitive. It then stated to repeat with the left clutch. So I called that computer up, ran through the same process, and right at the end, Xentry would say something like "module declined to respond to command." I repeated the reset from the beginning 3 times with the same result. No drivability issues detected during the test drive.
I seem to remember reading somewhere that one side's computer acts as the "master" for certain functions - I wonder if that's why the oil condition reset was only possible via the right hand computer. Does anyone have any experience with this or ideas?
So I may have figured it out but I'm having a tough time proving my theory in the hot summertime weather. To perform the reset, the fluid temp must be at or below 86 degrees F. The reset procedure does require you to idle the engine - and I assume the computer is actuating the clutch packs - all which raise the fluid temp. Fluid temp is right at the upper limit for the first test; by the time I get to the other side, the temp has risen above the allowable limit, causing Xentry to fail the reset. I have to find a way to make it cooler in my garage during the summer! Screenshot of the failure is below:
![Image]()
And once more I'd like to thank you for finding the BMW oil alternative. Your contribution was valuable for those who decide to change that out too. Big thumbs up man!
Well, as an update, kept the door to the garage open last night and temps were just within range this morning and the reset still failed. I now suspect one or more of the associated modules may be "locked" by MB - this is becoming more and more common, unfortunately...I'm guessing it's an attempt to prevent DIY and force you to the dealership. Hoping this doesn't require one of the paid services like openshell or passthrough - I'll continue investigating (plenty of time to do so this week as I'm on vacation).
Guys,
The most interesting element of all this to me is the fact that 30C (86F) is specified as a maximum temperature under which all this should be undertaken.
I know I have used this figure myself on multiple occasions, based on the work I have done on my vehicle and the data which I have recorded from it.
However, this particular function is the first time I have heard of an example where the factory itself refers to precisely the same temperature.
Thanks, @fatty45
I am telling you guys, this is a threshold ambient temperature for our vehicles, if you are going to use them as they were theoretically intended (and for which were all paid around 50% more than an A35)
The most interesting element of all this to me is the fact that 30C (86F) is specified as a maximum temperature under which all this should be undertaken.
I know I have used this figure myself on multiple occasions, based on the work I have done on my vehicle and the data which I have recorded from it.
However, this particular function is the first time I have heard of an example where the factory itself refers to precisely the same temperature.
Thanks, @fatty45
I am telling you guys, this is a threshold ambient temperature for our vehicles, if you are going to use them as they were theoretically intended (and for which were all paid around 50% more than an A35)
We're having our second heatwave of the season, first was last weekend with temps in the low 40's, which we dodged as we were away for a week so were happy with 33C, got back yesterday and today we're back in the low 40's. They say this will be the hottest summer in a very long time, with a lot of record breaking temps and long lasting heatwaves for the entire Mediterranean.
Took the A45s for a couple of errands today, which I don't normally do but wanted to refuel on my way back, from 27C in the garage, to 39C outside and if our ambient temp sensor is accurate, at some point in my route I even got 44C. Definitely a record breaking temp with this car, I don't think it has ever seen above 40C so far in three summers.
Cruising at 80-100 kph with the AC set to 23C and a nice cold breeze behind my seat, oil temp got as high as 96C, so I guess 44C ambient is truly pushing it. At Death Valley temps we'd probably be looking at over 100C. To put this into perspective, I get over 100C after three, back to back, 80-210 kph WOT runs in a typical summer night at 28C. That's what 44C does to our engines. Other than that, in the cabin it was very comfortable, the AC did a fantastic job, of course the seat fan function does help a lot, mostly when combined with the AC, helps constantly refresh your back and keeps you from sweating. And I do sweat a lot, can't stand the heat, plus I have a fairly white skin so I get sunburned quickly if not wearing a 50 SPF sunscreen.
Let's talk tires a little. Fronts got up to 56C while on the move and as high as 62C while parked for 15 minutes under the sun, then back to 56C after a few minutes of driving. These are insane temps for only a 80-100 kph cruise, I've never seen their likes before.
Took the A45s for a couple of errands today, which I don't normally do but wanted to refuel on my way back, from 27C in the garage, to 39C outside and if our ambient temp sensor is accurate, at some point in my route I even got 44C. Definitely a record breaking temp with this car, I don't think it has ever seen above 40C so far in three summers.
Cruising at 80-100 kph with the AC set to 23C and a nice cold breeze behind my seat, oil temp got as high as 96C, so I guess 44C ambient is truly pushing it. At Death Valley temps we'd probably be looking at over 100C. To put this into perspective, I get over 100C after three, back to back, 80-210 kph WOT runs in a typical summer night at 28C. That's what 44C does to our engines. Other than that, in the cabin it was very comfortable, the AC did a fantastic job, of course the seat fan function does help a lot, mostly when combined with the AC, helps constantly refresh your back and keeps you from sweating. And I do sweat a lot, can't stand the heat, plus I have a fairly white skin so I get sunburned quickly if not wearing a 50 SPF sunscreen.
Let's talk tires a little. Fronts got up to 56C while on the move and as high as 62C while parked for 15 minutes under the sun, then back to 56C after a few minutes of driving. These are insane temps for only a 80-100 kph cruise, I've never seen their likes before.
For the actual spec of the rear diff oil - best to check with the dealer as there may be more than 1 type needed.
Gear set - M-B 235.63 75W-80
Coupling - M-B 235.64 74W-70
Gear set - M-B 235.63 75W-80
Coupling - M-B 235.64 74W-70
Trying to imagine what a UK tuner would respond to an enthusiastic owner that began his message like so:
"Good morning, I'm interested in your 500hp tune for my W177 CLA 45. I'm in Panamint Springs, California, USA and drive over to Furnace Creek several days of the week, through Death Valley National Park. Our summer temperatures are over 125F or 51C and am wondering if I would notice any significant power loss, let's say in a 60-130mph WOT run. I would like to be able to do at least five back to back runs without problems. On that note, do you also lift Vmax? I'm assuming your tune has been thoroughly tested, been hearing great things on youtube. Also assuming you provide a warranty? Thank you."
"Good morning, I'm interested in your 500hp tune for my W177 CLA 45. I'm in Panamint Springs, California, USA and drive over to Furnace Creek several days of the week, through Death Valley National Park. Our summer temperatures are over 125F or 51C and am wondering if I would notice any significant power loss, let's say in a 60-130mph WOT run. I would like to be able to do at least five back to back runs without problems. On that note, do you also lift Vmax? I'm assuming your tune has been thoroughly tested, been hearing great things on youtube. Also assuming you provide a warranty? Thank you."
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