I just wanted to buy a litre of top-up oil for my new A200 petrol engine. Would I be correct in thinking that any fully synthetic 0W-20 oil would be suitable.
What oil do I need
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RoGil
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My A35 is on 13K miles and I've only used Castrol Edge 5W30 M for all services. This is a slightly thicker oil than 0W30 and I haven't had any engine issues, neither have I needed any top ups between services. I also own a gen 1 Porsche 997 and these cars have a widespread known fault with cylinder bore scoring. Hartech are one of the most respected engine specialists in the country, who have also designed and developed industry leading solutions to this issue. Porsche also specify a 0W30 oil for these cars, but Hartech who have rebuilt hundreds of these engines, recommend a thicker oil of at least 10W50 viscosity. Obviously our engines are different, but the principle of not using oil that's as thin as water is what should be of concern, when it's flowing through and coating engine parts.
You know 5W30 and 0W30 are same thickness right? (in HOT ºC). not in COLD.
10W its to much but we can use too. (for cold start)
THe best oil u can use its 0W50. but i don't know if there is any 229.XX in 0W50. so....
Remember this cars are ready to use 0W20 so... 10W makes no sense. and its a lot worst.
And M260 engines can use: 229.51, 229.52, 229.61, 229.71 & 229.72 (this is new so many cars maybe don't appear but yes we can use it too).
And yes u can put a 10WXX but i will not recomend, but it's my own opinion/recomendation you can do what you want ofc.
I just wanted to share my input, I've always used 229.72 on my W177 A180; surely if a newer spec is compatible, it should be better for fuel efficiency etc. This year the lubrication sheet was updated on 01/01/24 to exclude 229.52 on our petrol M282 engines.
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I do know that 0w20 is thinner than 5w30; although the fact the oil is getting changed annually quite negates this factor. I've used Mobil1 from Kwik-fit this year but will be taking it to a friend to service this year.
![Image]()
I did ask Newcastle Mercedes on eBay for w177 service kit replacing 229.52 with 229.72 and was pleasantly surprised to see Mercedes offering this at a similar price of 229.52 - £60.78 incl vat/pp. Plus I can use the current 10% eBay code through the reward gateway and pair it with the 3% Barclays Blue cashback for this week.
They will be adding the new kit with 229.72 on eBay shortly and are in the process of updating it for other vehicle changes too
I didn't go with the air filter/cabin from Mercedes, I thought it was too expensive - so choose Bosch for the air filter Mann/Bosch has a biofunctional cabin filter (supposedly filters viruses too, similar to a face mask) on top of the usual carbon activated one. They had a leap20 code recently.
In reviews, Hengst seems to be performing really well and apparently, Mercedes usually does use Hengst filters - but I've always been a Mann person myself lol. Bosch has always been a mid player.
I do know that 0w20 is thinner than 5w30; although the fact the oil is getting changed annually quite negates this factor. I've used Mobil1 from Kwik-fit this year but will be taking it to a friend to service this year.
I did ask Newcastle Mercedes on eBay for w177 service kit replacing 229.52 with 229.72 and was pleasantly surprised to see Mercedes offering this at a similar price of 229.52 - £60.78 incl vat/pp. Plus I can use the current 10% eBay code through the reward gateway and pair it with the 3% Barclays Blue cashback for this week.
They will be adding the new kit with 229.72 on eBay shortly and are in the process of updating it for other vehicle changes too
I didn't go with the air filter/cabin from Mercedes, I thought it was too expensive - so choose Bosch for the air filter Mann/Bosch has a biofunctional cabin filter (supposedly filters viruses too, similar to a face mask) on top of the usual carbon activated one. They had a leap20 code recently.
In reviews, Hengst seems to be performing really well and apparently, Mercedes usually does use Hengst filters - but I've always been a Mann person myself lol. Bosch has always been a mid player.
I've done the servicing today myself and learnt a few quirks on the A180.
The tools required I got all from Halfords and done within an hour outside Halfords
The drain plug/oil filter socket sizing is exactly the same as the Renault Captur, so the tools required are:
The Halfords jack will not lift the car, you'll need the low-profile version. The standard Silverline jack that I've owned for over 10 years does. I used two jacks to get enough ground clearance but probably best to use stands!
I have never used the jack adapters ever on this car, but I have now broken a jacking point. Please do buy an jacking adapter unlike me!
There are 11 metal screws holding the undertray, these are 8mm regular hex. There are 2 plastic rivets holding the undertray on both sides, using the rivet removal tool you can remove those.
Similar situation to the oil filter/drain housing, it's held in by plastic rivets/dimples.
The drain plug can be removed uses the 8mm square socket, the oil filter 27mm hex socket now.
Now the filling situation, I have noticed the display shows full even when I added 4L of oil, the car definitely is not full and requires 5.1L of engine oil.
![Image]()
So use the 'Technical Data' screen on the workshop menu (accessed by holding back for a second and then the center trackball for 5 seconds on the main display) - the menu will appear as an option. To access the live data of oil capacity and it will tell you how much extra is required to fill. The sensor does report higher than 5.1L when driving (e.g. 5.6L etc, expected when oil is running around - so check when car is stationary and ran for a few mins to see how much to top-up).
It's also recommended to use the menu to have the oil temperature at 90 degrees before draining the oil.
Do not trust the Service menu which shows a graphical full - this was a lie! Btw, noticed Kwik Fit did not top-up 5.1L of oil as I had the old oil fill just below the MB 5L container...
Thanks to this German chap, I was able to understand it all!
The air filter can be done without removing the ECU screws:
The cabin filter was really easy, I used a man biofunctional filter which included the plastic cap, I've kept the OEM one incase I go back to carbon filters.
All in all - it was a very fun experience, would do it again
The tools required I got all from Halfords and done within an hour outside Halfords
The drain plug/oil filter socket sizing is exactly the same as the Renault Captur, so the tools required are:
The Halfords jack will not lift the car, you'll need the low-profile version. The standard Silverline jack that I've owned for over 10 years does. I used two jacks to get enough ground clearance but probably best to use stands!
I have never used the jack adapters ever on this car, but I have now broken a jacking point. Please do buy an jacking adapter unlike me!
There are 11 metal screws holding the undertray, these are 8mm regular hex. There are 2 plastic rivets holding the undertray on both sides, using the rivet removal tool you can remove those.
Similar situation to the oil filter/drain housing, it's held in by plastic rivets/dimples.
The drain plug can be removed uses the 8mm square socket, the oil filter 27mm hex socket now.
Now the filling situation, I have noticed the display shows full even when I added 4L of oil, the car definitely is not full and requires 5.1L of engine oil.
So use the 'Technical Data' screen on the workshop menu (accessed by holding back for a second and then the center trackball for 5 seconds on the main display) - the menu will appear as an option. To access the live data of oil capacity and it will tell you how much extra is required to fill. The sensor does report higher than 5.1L when driving (e.g. 5.6L etc, expected when oil is running around - so check when car is stationary and ran for a few mins to see how much to top-up).
It's also recommended to use the menu to have the oil temperature at 90 degrees before draining the oil.
Do not trust the Service menu which shows a graphical full - this was a lie! Btw, noticed Kwik Fit did not top-up 5.1L of oil as I had the old oil fill just below the MB 5L container...
Thanks to this German chap, I was able to understand it all!
The air filter can be done without removing the ECU screws:
The cabin filter was really easy, I used a man biofunctional filter which included the plastic cap, I've kept the OEM one incase I go back to carbon filters.
All in all - it was a very fun experience, would do it again
Little update, purchased some MB 229.52 from the usual eBay Newcastle.
It seems anything with the label date of Sept 2024 now includes Fuchs branded MB oil, and not the usual Petronas labelling.
![Image]()
Not sure if I would be buying Fuchs again - I can presume it is good oil but I'd prefer the more name brands.
It seems anything with the label date of Sept 2024 now includes Fuchs branded MB oil, and not the usual Petronas labelling.
Not sure if I would be buying Fuchs again - I can presume it is good oil but I'd prefer the more name brands.
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Fuchs is excellent quality.
It’s a little rabbit hole I wouldn’t recommend exploring, but essentially the additive package that makes it compliant to API SN or SP is only made by around 5 companies - so no matter which “brand” you buy, they will all use the same additive package.
(And the Group IV PAO base stock is also made by a handful of companies worldwide, of which Fuchs is one of them …..)
Ah good to knowFuchs is excellent quality.
It’s a little rabbit hole I wouldn’t recommend exploring, but essentially the additive package that makes it compliant to API SN or SP is only made by around 5 companies - so no matter which “brand” you buy, they will all use the same additive package.
(And the Group IV PAO base stock is also made by a handful of companies worldwide, of which Fuchs is one of them …..)
Been sold out by the F1 marketing then
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9,121 Posts
A little reminder that “long life” oil change intervals are predominantly determined by marketing departments (in order to satisfy fleet/lease managers maintenance costs), rather than engineering departments………
So if you’re keeping your car long term, and/or have more arduous usage (eg short distances, performance use etc) - you may wish to consider more frequent changes.
Case in point…..
An A180 M282 1.3 petrol A-Class has the same oil change intervals, as the AMG A45s M139 engine, an engine so highly strung and operating at vastly different pressures and parameters. Yep. Makes complete sense 😂
So if you’re keeping your car long term, and/or have more arduous usage (eg short distances, performance use etc) - you may wish to consider more frequent changes.
Case in point…..
An A180 M282 1.3 petrol A-Class has the same oil change intervals, as the AMG A45s M139 engine, an engine so highly strung and operating at vastly different pressures and parameters. Yep. Makes complete sense 😂
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